Scallops, the North African way

One need only look at the region known as North Africa to see why it has long been a melting pot for all manner of societies, cultures and religions and continues to be so to this day. Ancient trade routes wind back and forth through countries like Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia, which themselves are a stones throw or a day’s sail from the likes of Spain, France and Italy. Add to that the presence of groups such as the Bedouin and Berbers with their nomadic heritages and it’s one of the most culturally rich areas on Earth. One of the benefits of being such a melting pot is the vast array of flavor profiles, spices and preparations that each group contributes to the overall dynamic. One such example would be the blend of spices, in countless variations scattered across the map, known as Ras El Hanout.

It’s almost impossible to find two families across North Africa who use the same spices, in the same amounts to produce their version of Ras El Hanout. Spices such as turmeric, cumin and saffron are common but others such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves can be found as well. One of the most common uses of Ras El Hanout is in the making or tagines, a common stew made from lamb, seafood, as well as vegetables and fruits. For my rendition of Ras El Hanout I chose the following selection of spices: cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, turmeric, cumin, coriander, allspice, oregano, fennel, caraway, paprika and a touch of guajillo pepper.

Instead of a tagine, I took some inspiration from a dish on the menu at the French Laundry which combines scallops, an asparagus purée, asparagus florets and tomato concasse. In place of the asparagus I used some wonderful, tender organic carrots. I began with a carrot puree, cooking the carrots simply in salted water until they were just tender. These I then puréed with some of the cooking liquid, pressed them through a sieve and cooked them down to intensify the flavor of the carrots. I then finished the purée with a light touch of honey, some of the brine from my pickled grapes, salt and cayenne.

Secondly, I roasted some of the smallest carrots in the oven with a generous flavoring of olive oil, salt, pepper, orange zest and grape brine. These were then finished with a “dressing” made from the deep green carrot tops. Lastly I did an oblique cut on some of my pickled grapes for a garnish with some crispy chick peas. Once all of my mise en place was complete I seared some scallops, well seasoned with Ras El Hanout, and my dish was ready for plating. So delicious!